How to Master Sika Top 107 Plus: Easy Application Guide

Sika Top 107 Plus has become a go‑to solution for architects and contractors who need a durable, decorative finish on concrete floors. Its reputation rests on a blend of high gloss, chemical resistance, and an easy‑to‑apply formulation. Yet many users still stumble over the “little details” that make the difference between a showroom‑ready surface and a patchy, premature wear spot.

What Is Sika Top 107 Plus?

In simple terms, Sika Top 107 Plus is a two‑component, epoxy‑based coating designed for interior concrete surfaces. The system combines a resin with a hardener, delivering a seamless, high‑shine layer that can stand up to traffic, spills, and even mild chemical exposure. Because the finish is self‑leveling, it hides minor surface imperfections while still allowing you to create a sleek, modern look.

Beyond aesthetics, the product offers a protective barrier that reduces moisture ingress—an advantage in commercial kitchens, hospitals, or any environment where hygiene matters. Its fast cure time (typically 24 hours to handle, 7 days to full strength) means projects can stay on schedule without sacrificing performance.

Preparing the Surface

A solid foundation is non‑negotiable. Even the best coating will struggle to bond if the substrate isn’t ready.

• Clean thoroughly. Remove dust, oil, and any loose particles with a vacuum or sweeping brush. For stubborn stains, a mild detergent followed by a thorough rinse works well.
• Repair cracks and holes. Use a compatible concrete repair mortar, let it cure, then sand smooth.
• Degrease if needed. In areas with oil spills, a solvent‑based degreaser ensures the epoxy won’t bead up.
• Test for moisture. Tape a piece of plastic film to the floor for 24 hours; any blistering indicates excessive moisture, which requires a moisture‑blocking primer.

Once the surface is clean, dry, and free of contaminants, you’re ready for the next step.

Mixing & Handling

Mixing must be precise—wrong ratios lead to soft spots or a never‑ending cure.

• Measure accurately. Use a calibrated scale; the typical ratio is 100 parts resin to 30 parts hardener by weight.
• Mix in a clean container. A low‑speed drill with a spatula attachment provides a uniform blend without introducing air bubbles.
• Work within the pot life. For Sika Top 107 Plus, you have roughly 30 minutes from the moment the hardener contacts the resin before the mixture begins to thicken.
• Avoid overheating. Mixing generates heat; if the mixture feels warm, pause and let it settle for a minute before continuing.

After a smooth, glossy blend appears, the coating is ready for application. If the mixture looks lumpy or separates, discard it and start over—there’s no shortcut here.

Application Techniques

Choosing the right tool depends on the area size, desired texture, and personal comfort. Below are the most common methods, each with its own set of quirks.

Brush

• Best for edges, corners, and small repairs.
• Use a high‑quality, synthetic bristle brush of ¼‑inch width.
• Apply in long, even strokes, keeping the brush angle around 45° to avoid lap lines.

Roller

• Ideal for medium‑sized rooms.
• Opt for a ¼‑inch nap roller; a thicker nap can trap bubbles.
• Roll in a “W” pattern, then fill in without lifting the roller to maintain uniform thickness.

Spray

• Perfect for large, open spaces where a flawless finish matters.
• Use a low‑volume, high‑pressure air‑less sprayer, set to 40‑50 psi.
• Maintain a 12‑inch distance, moving the gun steadily to avoid over‑application.

Regardless of the tool, aim for a coating thickness of 0.8–1.2 mm per pass. If you need a thicker layer, let the first coat cure to “hand‑dry” (about 4 hours) before applying a second.

Curing and Cleanup

After the final coat, protect the floor from traffic, dust, and temperature fluctuations. The optimal curing environment sits between 18 °C and 25 °C with relative humidity under 70 %.

• Cover the area with a breathable film for the first 12 hours to guard against dust.
• Ventilation helps dissipate the exothermic heat generated during cure.
• Clean tools immediately with mineral spirits; once the epoxy sets, removal becomes nearly impossible.

Full chemical resistance and load‑bearing capacity develop only after the 7‑day cure period, so plan your project timeline accordingly.

Common Pitfalls & Troubleshooting

• Bubbles appearing on the surface. Usually caused by over‑mixing or applying too thick a layer. Lightly roll a foam roller over the wet film to pop trapped air.
• Orange peel texture. Often the result of high ambient temperature or fast evaporation. Reduce the spray pressure or increase humidity slightly.
• Delamination after a few weeks. Check surface preparation—any residual oil or moisture will eventually pry the coating away.
• Uneven gloss. May indicate insufficient mixing. Always scrape the mixing container walls to ensure a homogeneous blend.

When in doubt, consult the technical data sheet; it offers detailed temperature and humidity windows that can save you a lot of re‑work.